
Foto: Portão de Brandemburgo. (Kriss Szkurlatowski)
In my resentful view of the Portuguese language, I would say that the greatest German heritage nowadays is the umlaut. The two dots on top of words give lightness to what, at first, seems unpronounceable. Right, not only of schwäbisch, sauerkraut and sausage or Mercedes-Benz, Audi and BMW – the renowned German automotive industry – does the country live.
In the eyes of contemporary history, Germany should be considered the most important territory of the 20th century. It was the arena of two great wars and, it seems a lie, but only two decades ago it was divided by a huge concrete wall that embarrassed the world.
The Berlin Wall, which separated the country into East and West, was one of the greatest blows to the sacred right of people to come and go. The sadness around the wall has given way to a futuristic square with buildings of almost twisted architecture – a meeting point for 10 out of 10 visitors who arrive in the country’s capital.
Today, Germany – the birthplace of Beethoven, one of the greatest classical composers that humanity has known, has a modern narrative. It is home to an important film festival and produces the best beers on the planet, such as the Kölsch, which never warms up – produced in the city of Cologne. Cheers!
THE END OF STEREOTYPES
Not everyone includes Germany in a first trip to Europe. In fact, not even in the second or third step here. The country does not have the appeal of Mediterranean beaches, speaks a difficult language (a vowel every five consonants!) and the Germans are not as spontaneous as an Italian, for example.
Nonsense from our tourist prejudice. I don’t deny, Italy seems to be hotter. In Portugal, the language also has its eccentricities, but it is much easier than trying to decipher the signs of Nuremberg.
What you need to know is that the differences between Germany and its neighbors are precisely in how you perceive the country. The Germans celebrate history by maintaining the best museums and memorials on the continent. Lakes and mountains reveal unique landscapes and established routes for bucolic and pastoral walks. From major centers to provincial stopovers, there is always a wide infrastructure specially prepared to welcome you.
THE CHEAP OF GERMANY
BERLIN – The most attractive thing about the city is East Berlin, rebuilt, renovated, and fashionable. Walking on this side of the city is free, and you will (re)live much of the events that changed the course of history. After drooling at the Sony Center – the futuristic square (with cafes, shops, and cinema) that brought brightness to the faded wall area, visit the glass dome of the Reichstag, the German Parliament. The building offers a perfect view of the city, but since it has free admission, the line is always huge. Arrive early. The Wall Documentation Center (Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer) portrays pure history. There are photos and videos telling the separation of families and repressive politics. Free admission, closed on Mondays. Get lost in the Unter den Linden, the city’s most famous street, built nearly 400 years ago. The capital of Germany is sprawling. You will need public transport that covers the entire city well. The daily ticket for the Tageskarte AB zone costs 6.10 euros. To go to Potsdam – the German Versailles on the outskirts of Berlin, where you can see the imperial Sansoucci Palace, buy the ABC which costs 6.50 euros. City website: www.berlin-tourist-information.de
COLOGNE – The city is 4h30 from Berlin by train and houses the Cathedral, one of the largest gothic cathedrals in the world and the main one in Germany. In addition to the spectacular architecture, the remains of the three wise men – Balthazar, Melchior, and Gaspar – supposedly rest in a golden reliquary inside the building. Free admission. To climb the tower costs only 2.50 euros. City website: www.koeln.de
FRANKFURT – It has always been the city of connection. Many tourists make it a stopover for other European cities. They don’t know what they’re missing. The Goethe House (Goethe House Museum), for example, preserves a large part of the original building where the most famous German writer – Johann Wolfgang Goethe – lived. Admission is 5 euros. Free on Wednesdays. Not to mention that the city is home to the largest International Book Fair in the world – which this year takes place from October 14 to 18. It is 3h40 by train from Berlin. City website: www.frankfurt-tourismus.de
HAMBURG – Hamburg’s tradition, 2h30 from the country’s capital by train, lies in economic strength. It is the main port in northern Europe. The city is well spread out, so walking can be tiring, as the attractions are not very close to each other. To solve this issue, buy the Hamburg Card which offers various discounts on attractions and free access to public transport. It costs 8 euros for one day or 18 euros for three days. (But only if you are on a specific trip to Germany, it is worth staying for more than 48 hours here). Do not miss the Main Church – the Lutheran church in the city center. Ceiling with arches, vaults, and free admission. City website: www.hamburg-tourism.de
MUNICH – The capital of Bavaria is the second favorite destination for travelers coming to Germany after Berlin. It hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the world. Marienplatz square should be the starting point to explore the city’s attractions on foot. Every day in the 85-meter tower of the Town Hall – the huge neo-Gothic building of the town hall, the Glockenspiel dance is staged. There are 32 little figures telling the battles and folklore of Munich. Free. Right there in the square, at the tourist information center, buy the Munich City Guide magazine for 1 euro. In it, you can always find some free event, exhibition, or show. It is 6h50 by train from Berlin. City website: www.muenchen.de
NUREMBERGUE – Famous for the tribunal that judged the Nazi war criminals, Nuremberg revolutionized international justice. But you should not remember it only for being a circus for Hitler’s immoral manifestations. The city is a mix of medieval castles, walls, towers, and churches. It houses the largest art and culture museum in Germany, and the main points of visitation are in Altstadt, the old town. Tourist information centers provide a booklet with the local schedule for free and sell the Nürnberg Card for 19 euros, which entitles you – for two days – to use all public transport for free and get free entry to all museums. However, being in Altstadt, you will only need transportation to visit the Nuremberg Tribunal and the Nazi Documentation Center (admission 5 euros) – the largest on the war and the Holocaust and a must-see stop. The card for a day that costs 3.80 euros may be worth it. City website: www.tourismos.nuernberg.de
TO AVOID THE OBVIOUS
One of the most beautiful road trips in the world to do by car is in Germany. The Romantic Road is a 350-kilometer route through Bavaria. It starts in Würzburg, a city lined with vineyards and with palaces recognized as world heritage sites. Then there are 27 more movie-like villages. Or rather, fairy tale. Castles, monasteries, forests, villages, lakes frame the entire route that ends in Füssen, in the Alps – to the south. For the very willing, the route can be done by bike. The path has excellent signage and appropriate cycling paths. And throughout the route, there are hostels and inns for daily lodging.
Foto: Sony Center, Berlim. (William Ramon)
WITHOUT MARKING TIME
It’s best to take euros. But if you arrive in Germany with dollars, the exchange can be done in many places such as train stations, buses, and specialized stores. Just look for the phrase Ohne Gebühr – no fee – written somewhere (or try to pronounce it to the attendant). Check the rate. It might be the best way out (or entry) for your money.